Nowadays, you can’t turn on the TV without seeing a celebrity chef—whole channels are devoted to food programs. But back in the 1960s and 70s, few chefs captivated audiences like Fanny Cradock. Alongside her seemingly ever-tipsy husband, Johnnie, Fanny was a television sensation, drawing millions of viewers, selling out the Albert Hall with live cooking shows, and becoming a beloved eccentric—until she fell from grace by being rude to a farmer’s wife on TV.
Fanny Cradock was notorious for being a dreadful snob, “bossy” (though today we’d call her assertive), and ruthless with her staff, often working them into the early hours of the morning. Writer Anton Burge, who found success with his play Bette and Joan at this very venue last year, has penned this new work specifically for Frinton Summer Theatre—a significant coup for the venue. Clearly, Burge has a soft spot for divas.
This play offers a sympathetic portrayal of Cradock, though as with all world premieres, it’s a work in progress. Some aspects of her life could be explored more deeply; her upbringing and vulnerabilities feel a bit glossed over, and the character of Major, who spends much of the play in the hospital, could have a stronger presence. Perhaps more excerpts from Fanny and Johnnie’s cooking shows could be reenacted as well.
Nevertheless, there’s much to enjoy. Brenda Longman is a delight as Fanny, greeted by whoops of joy from the audience—especially those who remember the real Fanny Cradock. Longman revels in Fanny’s cutting one-liners and outlandish behavior. On opening night, the short rehearsal period was evident—some nervous banging on the kitchen counter—but the run will surely settle in.
Sam Cox shines as Johnnie, moving beyond the stereotype to convincingly portray his deep love for Fanny. In fact, the real triumph of the play is the close bond between the two, beautifully captured by Sue Jenkins’s tender direction. Phoebe Loveday-Raymond is also convincing as Carol, Fanny’s on-screen assistant who did all the hard work and was paid to be silent. Along with Clive Brill’s voiceover as the TV producer, these characters provide much of the exposition, helping to introduce this remarkable woman to those who don’t know her while evoking fond memories for those who do.
Alice Carrol’s practical set design, which easily transitions between home and work, is well-executed—though the numerous scene changes do slow the pace somewhat.
Fanny Cradock’s fall from grace came on the TV show The Big Time, where another hugely successful TV personality, Esther Rantzen, placed members of the public into professional environments. Fanny was invited to critique a farmer’s wife, Gwen Troake, who was preparing a banquet for Prime Minister Ted Heath. Fanny’s dismissive attitude and mock vomiting faces outraged the public, leading to her “cancellation”—a precursor to today’s cancel culture.
This informative and entertaining play celebrates not just the iconic Fanny Cradock, but also the odds she overcame to become one of British television’s most successful chefs.
Frinton Summer Theatre, Frinton-on-Sea
Written by Anton Burge.
Directed by Sue Jenkins.
Cast: Brenda Longman, Sam Cox. Phoebe Loveday-Raymond, Clive Brill.
Running time: Approximately 2 hours including an interval.
Until August 10th